Planting young plants and watching them grow is
not only good for the hip pocket, it can be a very rewarding experience and more
often than not will give better results than planting more advance plants. The
reason for this is that the younger plant will get a chance to acclimatise to
its new environment earlier on as opposed to planting something that may have already gotten
used to a totally different climate.
We’ve put together this guide is to assist in
the care and planting of the tube stock plants we sell on this site.
Tools
Scissors or Secateurs
Spade or hand shovel (depending on your soil type)
Watering can or soft flow watering wand
Getting started
The first thing you need to do when you receive your plants is to remove them from the bags and give them a good drink.
Use the secateurs or scissors to cut the tape around the stem of the plant
Remove the bag
Place the plants in a tray or container that will allow water to drain away...empty garden pots make a great storage container for tube stock plants.
Water all plants until thoroughly soaked
Storing your plants
If you’re not going to be planting straight away, you’ll need to find a
suitable place to store your plants. Be sure to store them in a location that
will allow the water to drain away. Most, if not all the plants we sell do not
like to sit in water
Where you store your plants will depend on how long you will be
keeping them in the pots. Most plants can be kept in the tubes for up to 8
weeks, depending on the time of year and how old the plants are. As a general
rule, if you purchase in the cooler months, the plants can stay in the pots
longer as there isn't going to be much growth during that period. Also, if the
plants look like they're too big for their pot then this time period should be
reduced.
Anything longer than 8 weeks and we recommend potting them in larger pots if
your garden bed is not ready for planting, this will also ensure continued
growth until the garden is ready.
Note: Keeping plants in tubes for any period of
time will require thorough watering every day through the warmer months
and every second day through winter. Being in such small containers means they will dry out very quickly.
If you plan to store your plants longer than a week or two, be sure not to keep
them in a heavily sheltered area or indoors. The reason for this is that most of
the plants we sell are sun hardened and ready to plant out in full sun (you’ll
receive a note with your order if they are not), if you spoil them by keeping
them heavily sheltered, you run the risk of the plants going into shock when you
do finally plant them out in full sun, especially in the warmer months.
Removing the plant from the pot
Do not pull the plant out by the stem.
Care must be taken when removing the plant from the tube so that the potting mix surrounding the roots remains intact.
Turn the tube on its side or upside down with
the stem of the plant in between two fingers to support the soil structure.
Give the bottom of the tube a few firm taps and a light squeeze around all sides at the base, this will help loosen the root ball from the sides of the tube
While still holding the stem in between your fingers, give the tube a vigorous shake up and down to allow the root ball to slide away from the tube
If the plant does not fall away using this method, try tapping the top edge of the tube on a solid surface such as the top of a fence post or shovel handle to jar it out of the tube.
Only as a last resort, you can lightly put tension on the stem and gradually increase until the plant pulls free. This is only if its
really stubborn and assumes there is quite a dense root ball. Do not tug at it as this may cause root damage.
Once removed take a look at the root ball, if its a bit pot bound or roots are tightly wrapped each other, make a shallow cut with a sharp knife down each side before planting.
Planting out
The
steps taken to plant your young plants will depend very much on the type of
soil you have in your garden. The following instruction assumes you have
fairly good black\dark soil that is well draining. If you have clay or sandy
soil, then
click here for information on dealing with these and other situations.
If your planting a hedge or screen. Place each plant in the desired
position before digging any holes, this will allow you to space the
plants evenly and increase or decrease the spacing in-case you have more
or less than you need
Dig a hole about the height
and width of an average spade (20cm x 15cm).
If your planting in a mulched bed, keep the mulch out of the hole. It's
best to scrape the mulch into a pile away from where the holes are to
be dug so that it doesn't mix with the soil and it can be spread back
over the top when finished
Break up any large lumps of
soil before backfilling to avoid air pockets surrounding the root ball.
Place the plant in the centre of the hole and while holding it
upright, backfill the area around the plant avoiding any large lumps. Be
sure to keep the top of the root ball at the same height as the
surrounding soil.
When backfilling, create a shallow well around each plant to form a
water catchment. If the ground is on an incline then be sure to place
any excess soil on the lower side to form a well and hold at least
a bit of water from running off.
Water-in the plant and surrounding soil thoroughly until soaked.
Watering
Its very difficult to set out an exact watering schedule for all
situations as there are so many varying condition such as plant variety,
position (sun, shade and wind), season, soil type and mulch. Keeping a close
eye on your plants for the first few months will ensure that you find the
right schedule to suit your conditions.
Water well each day for the first 2 - 3 weeks during the warmer
months and 1- 2 weeks during winter
After that, taper off to about once every 2 or 3 days
From there on, observation will be needed to determine if the soil
is drying out or if the plant begins to wilt
After 6 - 12 months most plants will be able to find their own water
that's trapped in the surrounding soil, unless we go through an extended dry period.
Fertilizing
Fertilizer can be
applied after backfilling the hole. Place the fertilizer around the outer edge of the root
ball. In a mulched bed, it can also be place on top of the mulch as it will
leach through to the roots.
Note: Do not allow the fertiliser granules to come in
contact with the stem of the plant, this can have adverse effects.
What type to use
In most cases, a general purpose fertilizer will do the job (you will be
made aware if your plants need any special fertilizing requirements). If
you're planting in winter, an organic fertilizer will be more beneficial for
your plants as apposed to slow release tablet or granules. The reason for
this is that the slow release fertilizers are temperature activated so they
don't actually release any fertilizer during the colder periods.
How often
Some of the organic fertilizers include Blood n Bone, Dynamic Lifter,
Manure or liquid fertilizers such as Seasol require application every week
or every few weeks to be effective whereas the slow release fertilizers
require application every 3, 6 or 12months depending on the release rate
specified on the pack.
How much
Most fertilizer products will come with instruction as to how much
to apply. For tube size plants, 1 teaspoon of slow release granules around
each plant will do nicely.
Manure
Animal manure should be used more as a soil conditioner rather than a
fertilizer. Apart from containing many good nutrients that your plants can
use, it can also be applied to poor soils which are either sandy or clay
to help with water drainage, nutrient and moisture retention
Only composted manure should be used,
fresh manure should be avoided as it will draw nitrogen out of the soil as it
decomposes and may also burn
your young plants if too much is applied. Fresh manure should be composted
for at least 6 months before being applied to your garden. This will also help
destroy any undigested weed seeds.
Mulching
Mulch is a great way to help retain moisture, keep the weeds at bay and
give your garden that neat, finished look.
Try and avoid using pine bark as a mulch. Although it has an aesthetic
advantage it will have a negative effect on your plants because pine bark has
not yet decomposed and will draw nitrogen out of the soil during this process.
We recommend using sugar cane mulch. This is very good at keeping moisture
where it belongs and keeping weeds out and doesn't have as much of the nitrogen
draw down effect that pine bark has. Just remember that it will compress as it
gets rained and walked on so be sure to spread a nice thick layer of about 10cm.
Note: Avoid mulching right up to the stem of the plants, always keep the
mulch a couple of centimetres away from the stem so that it doesn't cause rotting.
Planting in tubs and planters
One thing to remember when planting in tubs and planters is that plants
are not designed to be kept in containers indefinitely. Eventually every
plant will need to be lifted out of the container and one of two things will
need to be done to allow for continuous growth. You can prune the outer
layer of the roots and return the plant to the same container with fresh potting mix
around the remaining root ball or re-pot the plant into a larger container.
The
reason for this is that after a certain amount of time, plants will become
pot bound which means their roots will become so tightly crowded in the pot
that even water won't be able to penetrate. This amount of time varies
greatly for each variety depending its growth rate and the size of the
container. You'll notice its
effects as the plant start to look a bit tired and is not responding very
well to anything you try.
For more information, contact Evergreen Growers - John and Elizabeth Zeaiter